Jewelry Answers

Jewelry Peacock Pearl.

Q.The hand's down winner of the simplicity award was Best-Actress winner Julia Roberts. While all others were trying to out-peacock each other, Roberts relied on the tired and true - a vintage black strapless gown with white "Y" trim by Valentino. Delicate, snowflake-shaped diamond jewelry by Van Cleef & Arpels and her ebullient grin perfectly accented her look. nominated for "Pollock," wore a sleek, three-button tuxedo with a powder-blue, satin, pleated shirt that matched his eyes. How's that for a splash of color?

A.I posess a few shells sent to me by a grower and they are as large as my outspread hand, with a thick, beautifully lusterous mother-of-pearl inside. Tahitians as a rule are natural color and can run from grey to black, with peacock black hues the most desirable colors. There is a high mortality rate for cultured South Seas oysters, as well as the difficulty of creating a perfect pearl with so much surface area which results in a rarity and subsequent high prices. Assembling enough pearls to match up and create a necklace can sometimes take years, especially for the top, top quality. That is why some tahitian and South Seas pearl necklaces can run to the tens of thousands of dollars, if not into the seven figure range at retail. ten years ago I sold a 36" strand of South Seas Keshi pearls for $75,000 wholesale. A pearl is judged by it's size, shape, color, complexion, orient (luster), and, in a strand, make (match). When looking a strand over, examine the pearls by the ends first, which are usually closer to the clasp and would be the more inferior pearls. The better pearls will be more toward the middle. Roll the strand to judge for off-center drilling and for "fish-eye" which is the mother-of-pearl nucleus showing through a thin coating of nacre. Eyeball the strand as if sighting down a gunsight to see how well the pearls match in color. Examine the pearl near the drill hole as this is usually where the worst blemishes will exist as well as give you an indication, under magnification, of the thickness of the nacre.

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